Keezer Build by Paul from Durham

This excellent keezer build is kicking off our series of DIY projects that will showcase all of the awesome things that North Carolina home brewers are building.  You can view all of the DIY showcase items by going to the “DIY Showcase” page in the main navigation.

This is one of the best keezer builds that I have ever seen.  It was built by Paul in Durham, NC.  Read more about Paul in the comments below!  You can see the full post on HomeBrewTalk that includes some additional comments.  Below is just the step-by-step instructions on the build, along with some of the great photos that Paul took.  And if this isn’t enough, you can check out my keezer build as well!

Step 1: Purchase chest freezer – Kenmore 8.8 cu ft – black

Step 2: Purchase pine lumber, wood stain, and other maintenance items for all parts needed.

Step 3: Mider cut all parts to hopefully give a smooth look. This was my first time doing any wood work so we’ll see what the finished product looks like.

Step 4: Sand all wood before staining

Step 5: I used wood staining pre-treatment and then quickly stained with Cabot cherry wood stain. I will let dry for about 48 hours before the second coat

Step 6: Build my base for the keezer, using 2×4’s. This will add a little bit of height to the taps, and I will also place some casters on them as well to make it more portable, and add more height. I used some wood screws and liquid nails to help hold it together.

Step 7: Drill holes for 4 faucets. For those who never did this before I drilled a small started hole, and then used a 1″ hole saw using the started hole for guidance. Also to help save the wood, drill the hold half the way on one side then finish the hole on the other side again using the starter hole.

Step 8: I sanded the boards with a fine sandpaper and gave the wood a second coat of stain.

Step 9: I used a fine sandpaper after the second coat of stain then I added a coat of semi-gloss polyurethane.

Step 10: I bought four 3″ swivel w/ brake casters and installed them on to my base board. I installed them at a bit of an angle hoping to give a little free room so that I can lower my wooden skirt.

Step 11: I couldn’t really create a groove for the feet of my freezer to sit in so I just placed a heaping amount of liquid nails on the feet and set the freezer on top of the base board with 3″ rims.

Step 12: I purchased four 90 degree angle clamps and began gluing my collar together, again using liquid nails.

Step 13: Re-glue the ends then I used the 90 degree clamps to help stabilize the joints while I added some angle brackets.  I repeated this on each corner and the last corner lined up nearly perfectly.

Just for giggles since I am getting really excited about the build I put the shanks, and perlicks in just to see what it looks like, and it looks glorious!


Step 14: I cut a piece of laundry board and used this as the replacement for the plastic on the top of the lid. I still used liquid nails to glue it to the lid.

Step 15: I glued and angle bracketed the skirt to cover the base in the same manner as step 13, then I glued the skirt to the base.

Step 16: I saved the original stripping to seal against the bottom of the chest freezer and then used a staple gun to secure it to the collar.

Step 17: I carefully lined up the lid to the top of the collar and then glued it to the laundry board on the lid. It lined up almost perfectly.

Step 18: I used some black silicone to use in the gap between the top lid and the collar since I used a thin piece of laundry board to replace the plastic cover on the lid.








Step 19: Install the shanks, and tubing the the two kegs that I have for now….don’t worry more kegs are on the way from midwest (hopefully).

Step 20: I found a small piece of metal the lined up with the holes on the hinges to use as extra support on the collar. I think that I read somewhere that this will help prevent damage to the collar. I used some wood screws and screwed the collar to the hinges.  You can see that the hinges can support the weight of the wood, shanks, and faucets with no problem.

And now the (near) finished product….





The owner of this site asked for me to say a few things aobut myself before he posted. I was lazy and never responded. Just as I was about to answer some of his questions I say that this was posted. So I’ll try to answer some of them here.

I am originally from Pittsburgh, PA and I moved down here in 2006 for work and significantly better weather. I got my first starter kit from my girlfriend, now fiancee, for Christmas in 2009. It was a typical starter kit, brew bucket, 5 gal. better bottle, bottling supplies (minus the bottles), hydrometer, and all of the regular starter supplies as well as a brown ale extract kit. It turned out pretty good.

It has been down hill from there. I brewed up around 4-6 extract kits after than then I did a partial mash and went to all-grain since then. After my third batch I started working on my kegerator since bottling was a P.I.A. I searched the forums on homebrewtalk and found a keezer that looked awesome so I used it as a baseline for how to build mine. It looks pretty similar so I don’t want to take the credit for the design. The onyl thing that I would change and I will do this at some point would be to glue my CO2 manifold to the wall just to free up some room off the floor and make the lines a little bit neater. I also may place the CO2 tank on the outside and then run it inside just to add room so that I can put a second keg on the compressor hump.

If there are any questions feel free to post a comment and I should get a notification as to any new comments.



Hey Paul, I’m a fellow Durhamite and wondered if you would be open to someone taking a peek at this firsthand. I’m thinking about building one of these myself and kind of wish I could look before I leap! No pressure, just curious. Great work!

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