My Keezer Build

You have probably seen my post on Paul’s keezer build and what an inspiring piece of equipment it is (if you haven’t read that yet,  you should check it out).  I was so inspired that I decided to try my hand at keezer building.  For those of you not familiar, a keezer is simply a kegorator made from a chest freezer: keg + freezer = keezer.

It is not all that difficult to build a great looking keezer.  Below is the step-by-step that I took, as well as the planned upgrades that I have not yet gotten around to.

dual-hinge keezer and fermentation chamber1) Acquire a chest freezer (I suggest Craigslist) and a basic corny keg setup.  You will also need some shanks (4″ or so in length) and faucets.  I recommend the Perlick forward-sealing pearl faucets because they keep from sticking, even when only used for a pint every day or two.

2) Hit up the hardware store for some wood.  I used whitewood, but any nice hard boards will work.  Make sure it is at least a 2-by-something, because you’ll need the thickness to help with insulation.  I used a 2×10″ board because I wanted to get as much height as possible.

3) You’ll also need some L-brackets, cabinet hinges, screws, weather stripping, sealant, duct tape and foam board insulation.  Make sure you have a drill with either a 7/8″ or 1-inch hole bit.

4) Measure the keezer and cut the wood at a 45-degree angle.  This will allow you to fit the wood together without any ugly seams.  You can go ahead and cut your foam board as well.  Remember that the insulation lengths will be shorter and don’t have to be at 45-degree angles.

5) Sand the boards and then stain the wood.  Let it dry over-night, and then sand again add on a second coat of stain.  Let it dry for 24-hours.

wood stained for keezer

6) Using a framing square and/or some 90-degree clamps, line up the boards and glue them together and attach the brackets to the inside.

7) Once the collar is square, glue on the insulation to the inside and cover all of the seams with sealant and duct tape.  This may sound a bit excessive, but I don’t want to loose any cold air, and want to avoid condensation caused by air-flow.

insulating keezer collar

8) Unscrew the hinges from the freezer lid and remove the lid.  Clean the top surface of the base and stick on the weather stripping.

9) Place the collar on top and line it up where you want it.  Then use the hinges that are attached to the base of the freezer and screw it to the back of the collar.

10) Place the lid on top of the collar and using offset cabinet hinges, attach the lid to the collar.  Hinging the collar to the base and the lid to the collar allows you the option of opening just the lid, or the lid and collar, which will lift your shanks and lines up out of the way for whenever you need to replace a keg.

keezer lid hinge

11) Drill your holes for the shanks and attach your lines and faucets, and you’re in business!

perlick faucets on keezer collar inside of keezer 20 lb co2 tank

The next things that I plan to add are a drip tray (using L-brackets attached with liquid nails), tap handles (check out this awesome BYO article about casting your own tap handles), and a base to mount wheels and lift the keezer up a bit (as Paul did in his build).  But for now, I have a fully-functioning keezer.  As you may notice from the photos, I also added a collar to my fermentation freezer so that I can fit in another carboy or bucket on the compressor hump.

If anyone else in the area has a keezer or kegorator build they would like to share, let me know, as I would love to feature you on the blog!  It is great to see all of the awesome DIY projects that brewers across the state are doing!




I’m not sure I agree with your hinging. I would, use a flat bracket to attach the collar to the freezer, and use the original hinges on the collar to the lid. That way, if you want later on to return it to stock, you haven’t drilled any holes in the freezer. Is there much value in being able to lift / open the collar?
Thanks for the pics / build info.


AO – Had I used a flat bracket to attach the collar to the freezer, would that not also require drilling into the freezer? The only way it would not would be if the holes in the bracket exactly lined up with the pre-drilled holes for the hinge. I figured either way I would be adding a few holes, but I could still convert it back to a freezer if I ever wanted (which is highly unlikely). The holes I drilled don’t keep me from doing that.

I didn’t actually drill any holes in the freezer part this way, only 4 total screw holes in the lid, in the back. So I didn’t see any problem with this.

The value of being able to lift the collar is that it picks up all of your shanks and beer lines so they’re not in your way when you pull kegs in and out. It also keeps you from having to lift a full keg an extra 10 inches to get over the collar. Those were the benefits I saw and the reason I decided to go the double-hinge route.


I was thinking one might use something like plate aluminium and drill holes in that to align with the original hinge holes. Being able to get the lines / shanks out of the way would be nice. How are the original hinges holding up to the weight of the collar?


That would have been a fine option, for sure. But just another piece to buy. The original hinges seem to work great on the collar. They’re pretty big hinges, with 4 screws so I’m not too worried about them at all.


Do you use a fan in your keezer, or does the insulation keep the top of the freezer cool?


This build did not use a fan. I do think using a fan is a good idea, but this one holds temperature fairly consistently without one. In other words, if you have access to a cheap used computer fan, go for it, but don’t spend a lot of extra time and money on it.


I like your hinge! I’m wondering if it will solve a problem I have. I want my lid to open up a full 90 degrees. I have 60 ltr fermenters I put in there and one day they will become too much for me to move, so I was going to put a winch on tracks to move my fermenters in and out.

Will that hinge of yours open up to 90 degrees? If so, how much weight can each hold and what do you call them?


Matthew – yes, the lid will open a full 90 degrees+. It’s been so long since I built this, I don’t recall the specs of how much weight they hold or what they’re called, but in re-reading the article, it looks like the are “offset cabinet hinges.” Hope that is helpful!

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